Stitching Tradition to Trend:Ethiopian Fashion Steps Forward

Stitching Tradition to Trend:Ethiopian Fashion Steps Forward

MAFI MAFI Launches Academy to Train Designers

In Ethiopia, a country rich in cultural diversity and artistic expression, creativity flourishes in every corner—from music to fashion to the culinary arts. Yet, professionals in these fields often grapple with a challenging balancing act: preserving traditional values while catering to modern tastes. This tension is most evident in Ethiopia’s budding fashion industry, where designers find themselves navigating the fine line between heritage and innovation.

At the forefront of this movement is MahletAfework, a trailblazing designer who has spent 15 years attempting to redefine Ethiopian fashion. Mahlet’s journey began at just 15, with a simple yet ambitious vision: to create and celebrate everyday wearable clothingthat honors Ethiopian traditions.

“When I started, I didn’t have much knowledge, but I was determined to succeed,” Mahlet recalls. In the early days, traditional Ethiopian clothing was rarely seen as everyday wear. Mahlet saw an opportunity to change that.

But the path was anything but smooth. The fashion industry in Ethiopia lacked formal education opportunities, forcing her to learn through basic training centers and online resources like YouTube.

“I wanted to study fashion formally, but there were no schools in Ethiopia offering comprehensive courses,” Mahlet explains. “I took what training was available, and when studying abroad proved too costly, I turned to YouTube and learned by doing.”

Despite these challenges, Mahlet persevered.

After showcasing her designs in small local exhibitions, her big break came in 2010, when she presented her first major collection at a forum in Kenya. This experience opened doors to international exhibitions, taking her designs to European runways. In 2012, Mahlet’s career hit a new high when she won the Origin Africa competition, outshining 32 designers from across the continent. This victory earned her a coveted spot at African Fashion Week in New York.

“We’ve planned projects in Paris, Berlin, Italy, and New York,” Mahlet says. “The industry here still has a long way to go, but I’m proud of what we have achieved. I’ve learned so much and managed to promote my brand worldwide.”

Despite these successes, Mahlet remains realistic about the challenges facing Ethiopia’s fashion industry. While there has been progress, she notes that the industry is still in its infancy compared to global standards.

“When I started, the country wasn’t recognized for its fashion industry, but now we’re seeing some progress,” Mahlet observes. “New schools are opening, and attitudes towards fashion are changing. However, growth is still very limited.”

Mahlet attributes the slow growth to several factors: a lack of quality education, insufficient resources, and limited government support. Media coverage has also been sparse, though social media has played a crucial role in promoting the industry.

“We export our products regularly, but the market is mostly foreigners living here,” Mahlet explains. “Without more expertise and resources, the industry won’t grow as it should.”

However, Mahlet is optimistic about the future. The rising demand for Ethiopian designs, spurred by music videos, modeling, and other art forms, signals a growing interest in the country’s fashion.

“Artworks like music videos and films help promote our designs,” Mahlet says. “We’ve recently worked with artists like HewanGebrewold and Kasmase on several projects.”

For aspiring designers, Mahlet stresses the importance of education and hands-on experience with established fashion houses.

“To compete globally, you need a strong foundation in both knowledge and practice,” she advises. “It’s not enough to learn in school; you need real-world experience.”

Looking forward, Mahlet believes that for Ethiopia’s fashion industry to truly shine on the global stage, it must overcome its current limitations and embrace a more ambitious vision.

“Fashion is more than just clothing,” she says. “It’s a reflection of our culture, a driver of the economy, and a force that can shape society.”

The global fashion industry pulses through the streets of Paris, Milan, New York, and London, where fashion weeks set the trends and showcase the creativity of top designers. These cities dominate the scene, merging tradition with innovation to produce the aspirational pieces that define each season.

Ethiopia,rich in cultural heritage, is carving out its own space in this dynamic world. The country’s fashion scene is distinctive, characterized by its use of handwoven cotton and silk, often embellished with intricate patterns and traditional embroidery.

Ethiopian designers have embraced these age-old techniques while increasingly incorporating modern design elements. Yet, the industry faces significant hurdles, particularly in the availability of diverse textile materials.

MAFI MAFI, a mainstay in the country’s fashion industry, has been at the forefront of blending ancient heritage with contemporary style since its founding in 2011 E.C. Now, the brand is taking a bold leap forward with the launch of the Mafi Fashion Academy and Lab (MFAL).

Officially inaugurated on July 24, 2024, this new institution is the result of a collaboration between MAFI MAFI, the Italian Embassy, and the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO).

The academy was born out of a recognition that Ethiopia’s burgeoning fashion industry is stunted by a lack of comprehensive education programs. Mahlet, the visionary behind MAFI MAFI, has long advocated for better training and resources for Ethiopian designers.

“We have immense talent here,” Mahlet emphasizes. “But without proper education and training, it’s tough to reach our full potential. We need more dedicated schools and programs to help us develop our skills and gain the exposure necessary to compete globally.”

The Acadamy goes beyond the traditional classroom setting, offering students practical skills and access to international platforms. Over the past 15 years, MAFI MAFI has been cultivating high-quality African fashion leaders, and MFAL aims to continue this legacy by equipping students with the skills and knowledge needed to compete on a global scale. The curriculum, developed in collaboration with international fashion consultants, blends the latest design trends with entrepreneurial skills, addressing the specific gaps in African fashion education.

Courses offered at MFAL include fashion design, fashion business, fashion photography, fashion styling, and fashion technology. These programs are taught by Italian experts and internationally recognized professionals, ensuring that students receive a world-class education. The academy aims to empower aspiring designers and entrepreneurs, fostering innovation and building global connections.

Mahlet acknowledges the challenges Ethiopian designers face in breaking into the fashion industry. And the academy aims to address these challenges head-on.

The Italian Ambassador Agostino Palese underscored the long-standing partnership between Italy, UNIDO, and Ethiopia, which aims to support Ethiopia’s economic ambitions.

“This project seeks to offer integrated services, particularly for women, to enhance their capacities,” Palese said. “One of our key objectives is to equip local young talents with the tools to start their own enterprises in leather fashion and textiles.”

The initiative also aims to foster public-private partnerships and promote innovative products, helping to create new startups in the fashion sector.

Mahlet pointed out that the Ethiopian government can play a crucial role in supporting the industry by investing in education, modern textile manufacturing facilities, and providing resources, mentorship, and funding for startups.By taking these steps, Mahletbelieves the government can create an environment where the fashion industry can thrive, contributing to economic growth, job creation, and the preservation of Ethiopia’s rich heritage.

UNIDO’s representative at the event highlighted the organization’s global mission to develop infrastructure and innovation, emphasizing its role in supporting MFAL with essential equipment and training. The academy’s courses, which range from three months to a year, offer students the chance to launch their own businesses, secure employment with partner companies, pursue further studies abroad, or receive mentorship to propel their ventures toward global success.

BY: The Times Union